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Sunday, June 21, 2015

How to Score the Freshest, Tastiest Shrimp

We are a nation of shrimp lovers. We eat more of it than any other seafood—nearly four pounds per person each year. And like Bubba in that scene from Forrest Gump, we’re not at a loss for ways to cook it.
Still, the shrimp-buying experience isn’t always a sure thing. It shouldn’t smell funky or overpowering—this much you know.
But if you catch yourself wondering whether that bag of frozen shrimp you just tossed in your cart is from some faraway underwater farm (probably) and whether you should be worried about that (it depends), you’re not alone.
Epicurious Food Editor Rhoda Boone and Jon Rezny, a 20-year seafood industry veteran and vice president of purchasing for Illinois-based wholesale distributor Fortune Fish & Gourmet, set us straight.
Hint: Buy from a reputable source and ask lots of questions.
COUNTER CHECK
Shrimp should smell of the sea and the flesh should look firm, said Rhoda. Black spots or markings are a red flag. “That shows age,” Rezny said.
You’ll see shrimp labeled “small,” “jumbo,” and so on, but the “count,” which refers to the number of shrimp in a pound, is a more accurate gauge of size. The smaller the count, the bigger the shrimp. You’ll see counts like 16/20, which means there are 16 to 20 shrimp in a pound.
FRESH OR FROZEN?
Most shrimp are frozen after they’re caught and then shipped to supermarkets, including what you see thawing on ice at the counter. It could be a different story at your specialty fish market—that shrimp might be truly fresh, not frozen. (Ask. It never hurts!) But generally, most shrimp is frozen, and it’s fine to buy it.
FARMED OR WILD-CAUGHT?
More than 90 percent of shrimp sold in the U.S. is imported, mostly from Southeast Asia, Ecuador, and India. The majority of that is farm-raised, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
By law, supermarkets must label shrimp with its country of origin and whether it’s farmed or wild. Smaller fish purveyors are exempt, but many do label and, again, you can always ask. Here’s where it gets tricky. Farmed shrimp mislabeled as “wild” is unfortunately more prevalent than we know, a recent report by conservation group Oceana found.
But not all farmed shrimp comes from gross, polluted tanks. Your best bet is to look for certification labels that signify well-managed operations, Rezny said. For farmed shrimp, the Best Aquaculture Practices label is a big one; for wild, look for Marine Stewardship Council-certified. The Monterey Bay Aquarium is another sound resource for its online guide to sustainable seafood.
JUST WORDS
By the way, an “organic” label on shrimp is meaningless. USDA organic standards for seafood don’t exist—not yet, anyway. Ditto for “natural.”
WHICH KIND OF SHRIMP?
Among the most common farmed shrimp at the grocery store are white vannemei shrimp and tiger shrimp from Asia. Common domestic wild varieties include white and brown shrimp from the Gulf of Mexico. Gulf pink shrimp is pricier, and not nearly as ubiquitous as Gulf white or brown. It is, however, the best tasting in Rezny’s opinion, with an almost lobster-like firmness and sweetness.
Farmed shrimp tend to be softer and lack that snap and flavor of saltwater varieties, Rezny said.

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